Boar’s Head will never make liverwurst again after outbreak that killed 9

A recall notice is posted next to Boar's Head meats that are displayed at a Safeway store on July 31, 2024, in San Rafael, California.
Enlarge / A recall notice is posted next to Boar’s Head meats that are displayed at a Safeway store on July 31, 2024, in San Rafael, California.

The Boar’s Head deli-meat plant at the epicenter of a nationwide Listeria outbreak that killed nine people so far harbored the deadly germ in a common area of the facility deemed “low risk” for Listeria. Further, it had no written plans to prevent cross-contamination of the dangerous bacteria to other products and areas. That’s according to a federal document newly released by Boar’s Head.

On Friday, the company announced that it is indefinitely closing that Jarratt, Virginia-based plant and will never again produce liverwurst—the product that Maryland health investigators first identified as the source of the outbreak strain of Listeria monocytogenes. The finding led to the recall of more than 7 million pounds of Boar’s Head meat. The Jarratt plant, where the company’s liverwurst is made, has been shuttered since late July amid the investigation into how the outbreak occurred.

In the September 13 update, Boar’s Head explained that:

[O]ur investigation has identified the root cause of the contamination as a specific production process that only existed at the Jarratt facility and was used only for liverwurst. With this discovery, we have decided to permanently discontinue liverwurst.

While the statement seems to offer some closure on the outbreak’s source, previously released inspection reports described a facility riddled with sanitation failures. Between August 1, 2023, and August 2, 2024, the facility was cited for 69 violations, which included water leaks, mold in numerous places, algal growth, “meat buildup” caking equipment, and walls that were also crawling with flies and gnats, sightings of other insects, rancid smells, trash and debris on the floors, and even “ample amounts of blood in puddles.”

The New York Times also reported that a 2022 inspection found that the plant posed an “imminent threat” to public health and that inspectors cited “extensive rust, deli meats exposed to wet ceilings, green mold and holes in the walls.”

Cross-contamination

The document newly released by Boar’s Head is a letter dated July 31 from the US Department of Agriculture’s Food Safety and Inspection Service notifying the company that the Jarratt facility was suspended. The basis of the suspension was an inspection finding from July 24 and 25 of L. monocytogenes contaminating a pallet jack in a large room where ready-to-eat meats were processed. The room was a common area not specific to liverwurst processing and was deemed by Boar’s Head to be “low risk” for Listeria.

Meats from eight processing lines were in the room, with lines 1 through 4 on the left side and 5 through 8 on the right, handling hot dogs and other small sausages. The contaminated pallet jack was designated for production line 2, which was handling Beechwood Hams, and was used to move racks of hams from blast coolers to production lines in the processing room.

However, inspectors noted that the pallet jacks and product racks in the room weren’t kept to designated production lines, and instead, employees moved them between all of the lines and all of the blast coolers, enabling cross-contamination. And, while the equipment was moved around, people did, too. Although employees typically stuck to one production line, they would sometimes move between lines, and there were no procedures for employees to change personal protective equipment (PPE)—gloves, disposable aprons, and arm covers—when they switched. Inspectors saw them switching without changing their PPE.

“They also observed employees who freely move between all lines without directly interacting with product such as those removing garbage, removing product debris from the floors, removing condensation from overhead structures, or performing maintenance,” the USDA officials wrote.

Outbreak spread

Given that this was in a room full of meats that were supposedly ready to eat, the USDA concluded that Boar’s Head “failed to maintain sanitary conditions” and that its Listeria control program was “ineffective.”

To date, 57 people from 18 states have been sickened. All 57 were hospitalized, and nine people died. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention reported that health officials have interviewed 44 people sickened during the outbreak, who said they ate various deli-sliced meats. Only 25 reported eating deli-sliced liverwurst.

In light of the outbreak, Boar’s Head said it is revamping its safety and quality assurances at its other facilities and hiring experienced food safety experts. “You have our promise that we will work tirelessly to regain your trust and ensure that all Boar’s Head products consistently meet the high standards that you deserve and expect. We are determined to learn from this experience and emerge stronger.”

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